professorpski:

Threads September 2018

It’s the first fall issue, but almost all the articles are as useful now as they will be when it turns cold.
The top image of the yellow dress is yet another amazing vintage
garment featured on the back cover. This is a silk faille gown from 1965 made
by Norman Nordell that works of a traditional Korean gown. Once again its secret details are explained by Judith Neukam in an article that features photos of the inside of the dress and an illustration of how it was cut as a no-waste design. In keeping with the theme of no-waste, the top on the cover by Susan Khalje is an example of a narrow fabric– from Japan and only 14 “ wide!– being used to create a top and belt.

Kenneth D. King shows how to draft a half lining for a jacket where you want the lapel to be made without a facing because you are using a double-faced fabric and want to show off both sides. See the green and taupe jacket. Last, you see the lace skirt is by Denise Severson who explains how you can make your own choice of plaids using lace over another fabric. 

There are also article on scissors, on copying a ready-to-wear skirt, on pondering which cut of jacket best suits you, and more. You can find it at your local bookstore news stand or here: https://www.threadsmagazine.com/issue/2018/06/threads-198-aug-sept-2018

Everything Can Be Measured In Thread

moiraecrochet:

My whole life I felt that everything could be measured in thread.



What binds us to others is as tenuous. Our frustrations are no different than a tangle. Our discomforts are snags, while illnesses are tears that may run and ruin us. 

Families and ancestors are woven together, with complex patterns emerging over generations. And the world is a vast tapestry held together by invisible threads, with brief and brilliant colors that appear and disappear just as quickly.



Our lives are measured in thread. 

This is done by the fates, the apportioners, the Moirae, that men and gods must submit to. Three sisters singing in unison – one of the past, one of the present, and the last of what is yet to come. They sing as Clotho spins the thread of life, as Lachesis measures it, and as Atropos cuts it.


Duty determines our destiny, as silk is meant for sutures and hemp is used for rope. Our experiences shape and test us, unraveling our life to help us find the fibre of our being. 



At the outset of any project or life there is no clear form or function, it is only as we approach the midpoint of either that we can begin to see the construction and shape. This is when we can breathe deep, and know our efforts have meaning and a place in the world.



Everything can be measure in thread

professorpski:

It’s Too Darned Hot: How To Dress for the Heat

I once had a student working for me in the summer who complained she thought wearing a dress would be cooler but she was still too darned hot. The dress was actually the problem: it was denim and skin-tight.

So, first, opt for looser cuts. Loose means airflow, or the chimney effect–hot air rises–as the Dress Doctors called it. Loose means any little breeze on a sultry day will flow through your clothes and cool you off. So a dress or skirt with some flare, trousers with some width, these are best options. As you can see from my photo, a blouse that can be worn outside a skirt instead of tucked in, also allows air to flow. 

Fabric? Opt for lightweight wovens. Wovens are cooler than knits, ounce for ounce, so forget leggings for now. I even give up on knit tops when it’s this warm. The coolest fabrics are rayon, silk, cotton and linen. And I find if you have a fabric that blends linen or cotton with silk, you get a bit less wrinkling. Rayon if very light weight will wrinkle when you sit on it etc., but
much less so

if it is a better quality with a bit more weight to it. Or, you can opt for seersucker, gauze and others fabrics which have crinkles built into them and forget about wrinkles entirely. Of course, blending natural fibers with some synthetic fiber will eliminate wrinkling too, but makes for a hotter fabric. The exception are sheer synthetics which I find are ok for summer wear if lined with a Bemberg rayon lining. In fact, I once had a colleague who claimed a pair of silk slacks were her hottest clothing to wear when really it was the polyester lining which was the problem. I have been known to cut out polyester linings from summer ready-to-wear and replace them with rayon.

Color? Black definitely heats up more in the sun as you know if you have a black car interior, so why not give it up for the summer? Navy can look serious if that’s your aim, and so can various shades of beige. And if you don’t have to look serious, indulge in the pastels, and the tropicals, or some of these cross-weaves that have white threads going in one direction and a darker shade going in the other direction as you see in the skirt above which combines white and red linen threads. If you go simply white, remember that a textured woven–eyelet, embroidery-pique, etc.–is less likely to show the inevitably smudges of dust or dirt.

Of course, a tall glass with a lot of ice cubes helps too.